Words & Photos By: Grant Fraser, Senior Contributing Writer
I remember flying to Palm Springs for the first time. For what seemed like hours, I recall fidgeting in my seat, anxiously staring out of the tiny airplane window at the dry, sun-scorched terrain that I figured was either Arizona or California. “How on earth could anything exist down there?” I wondered as I could see the heat rising from the barren lands below. Then, out of nowhere, the brown and arid landscape magically disappeared, surrendering to the lush and green expanse of a desert oasis. With clay-coloured roof tops and palm trees clearly in sight, I knew I had entered California’s Coachella Valley and the renowned area of Palm Springs.
With 350 days of sunshine and over 120 golf courses, Palm Springs is much more than a sun-starved Canadian’s winter escape. With a total population of approximately 500,000, the Greater Palm Springs area seamlessly encompasses nine cities – Cathedral City, Coachella, Desert Hot Springs, Indian Wells, Indio, La Quinta, Palm Desert, Palm Springs, and Rancho Mirage. People who refer to the entire area as “Palm Springs” are easily identified as “non-locals” as year-round residents are quite particular about accurately referencing the city in which they reside. Semantics aside, there is plenty to do throughout the Valley to satisfy all your adventurous and leisurely desires.
My most recent visit to the desert was filled with a variety of memorable golf and non-golf activities that I consider “must-dos” as part of any itinerary for someone planning a warm-weather retreat to Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley.
Enjoy the Perfect Weather – For starters, soak up the sunshine! The Greater Palm Springs area is a true desert with less than six inches of rainfall annually. The sun shines 350 days, averaging over 100 degrees (40 Degrees Celsius), June through September. While that may sound hot – and it is – it’s true what they say about a “dry heat”. It’s surprisingly comfortable up to 95-100 degrees for those who like it steamy. All you have to do is think about a minus-a-million-degree day in January, and you’ll find yourself adapting quite well to temperatures we don’t see in Canada. The rest of the year is as close to perfection as you will find, especially if you are partial to 70–80-degree temperatures with no humidity.
Immerse Yourself in the History and Culture of the Area – The history of the area dates back 2,000 years, when the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians spent much of the summer months in the cool regions of the Indian Canyons, just a few minutes from present-day downtown Palm Springs. Their presence survives (and thrives) today as the Agua Caliente Band now owns and operates The Agua Caliente Cultural Museum (www.accmuseum.org) and The Spa at Sec-he. There are plenty of art galleries to enjoy in Palm Springs, many featuring works from Native and Western American painters and sculptors that celebrate the region’s rich history.
The Cultural Centre and Spa at Sec-he
Indulge in A Day at the Spa – After learning about the rich history of the area at the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum, be sure to spend the rest of the day at The Spa at Sec-he (www.thespaatseche.com). To say this is not your everyday spa experience would be an understatement. Since its official opening in 2023, this 73,000-square-foot retreat has received countless accolades, including being named the No. 1 spa in North America, presented by Spas of America. Guests from around the world come for a soothing soak in the sacred Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Spring and its 105-degree healing waters that emerge from ancient aquifers 8,000 feet below. Before reluctantly departing, be sure to acknowledge and give thanks to the indigenous band of Cahuilla Indians who have generously shared these medicinal waters for more than 130 years.
Frolic at the Fairs, Festivals, and Palm Springs VillageFest -There are just as many fairs, festivals, and events happening in Palm Springs as there are days in the year. The most famous of all are the Palm Springs International Film and Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festivals that take place every January and April, respectively. It was the late Sonny Bono who established the former event in 1990, a 10-day extravaganza that now attracts over 100,000 filmgoers annually to the area. If you can’t take part in the film festival, be sure to experience the Palm Springs VillageFest – www.villagefest.org – a weekly street fair held every Thursday evening along Palm Canyon Drive. All are welcome to enjoy the live music, food, arts and crafts, and farmers’ market. Best of all, it’s fun, and it’s free.
Take a Tour of “Hollywood East”– Located 110 miles southeast of Los Angeles, Palm Springs emerged as “Hollywood East” for numerous movie stars during the 1930’s and 40’s. As part of their contract, most stars were paid a weekly salary but always had to remain within a 1.5-hour drive of the studio. Palm Springs was the perfect location. Many of Hollywood’s elite built second homes in the area including Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Liberace, Telly Savalas, starlet Bette Davis, film director Frank Capra and cowboy legend John Wayne, all who came to escape the frenetic pace of Tinsel Town. The aforementioned Sonny Bono loved the place so much he decided to stay permanently, later becoming the mayor of Palm Springs in 1988. For a complete yesteryear experience, take a drive through the residential area of Palm Springs, appropriately referred to as the “Movie Colony”.
Classic Palm Springs Architecture and Design
Become a Mid-Century Modern Architect Expert – “Desert Modernism” is the term used to describe the unique architectural style of the homes in Palm Springs. Famous Palm Springs architects who pioneered the iconic desert vibe in the 1950’s and 60’s include the likes of Albert Frey, William Cody, E. Stewart Williams, Donald Wexler, and William Krisel. Purposefully crafted with the desert elements of the San Jacinto mountains and brilliant-blue sky in mind, what is most apparent is that no two homes are alike. To fully appreciate the significance of this architectural genre, take a guided tour with a local expert familiar with exterior and interior design. The Palm Springs Mod Squad (www.PSmodsquad.com) provides intimate guided tours through several neighbourhoods and interior access to a handful of mindfully selected homes.
Shopping and Dining along El Paseo Drive
Shop Till You Drop and Dine along El Paseo Drive – If you like to shop and eat, there is only one place to go, and that’s El Paseo Drive, the “Rodeo Drive of the Desert.” Even if you don’t plan to buy a bracelet, dress, or designer suit, take a walk up and back along the two-mile shopping strip and drop in to one of the eclectic shops along the way. Some of the area’s best restaurants can be found on El Paseo Drive, including three personal favourites, Piero’s Pizza Vino, the Daily Grill, and Wilma & Frieda’s Café.
Take a Hike – After you’ve had a taste of the “lifestyles of the rich and famous” experience on El Paseo Drive, rejuvenate your senses and take a trip to the Joshua Tree National Park. Located northeast of the Coachella Valley, this expansive desert wilderness covers 794,000 square miles and features towering cholla cacti, twisted Joshua trees, and giant granite rock formations. Any time is a good time to visit the park as it is open year-round. The spring is when the cacti and Joshua trees are in full bloom, boasting a variety of colours from lily white to flaming fuchsia. For obvious reasons, the park is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, including hikers, bikers, rock climbers, and photographers. For true late-night stargazing, this is the place to come to witness the awesomeness of the Milky Way and other distant galaxies that sparkle overhead.
Escape the Heat and Climb Aboard the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway – What’s the best way to escape the desert heat and experience a drop in temperature of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit in less than 15 minutes? – By jumping aboard the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (www.pstramway.com) and ascending 2.5 miles, or 8,516 feet, to the cooler climes of the Mount San Jacinto State Park. From the world’s largest rotating tram car (“The Rotair”), the views between the cliffs of Chino Canyon overlooking the entire Coachella Valley are unparalleled.
Don’t rush this experience. With over 50 miles of scenic hiking trails, spend the day savouring the sweet smells of the 100-foot “gentle Jeffrey” and Lodgepole pines. For late afternoon visitors, check out the Ride ‘n’ Dine special that bundles your return ride with a delicious meal at the Peaks restaurant. The tram cars depart every half hour, with the last car returning at 9:45 pm.
Savour the Fine Wines of the Temecula Valley – From Palm Springs, you’re two hours away from Temecula Valley, Southern California’s wine country that features more than 50 wineries. OK, so Temecula Valley may not be as famous as its neighbours to the north, but the wines in this area of California rival just about anything you’ll find in the Napa or Sonoma Valleys. Many of the vineyards of Temecula Valley are small, boutique, and family-run businesses that have carved out a niche in the competitive world of winemaking. I suggest taking an entire day to savour the flavours of the area by enjoying a wine tasting tour and lunch at Wilson Creek Manor, followed by another wine tasting experience at both the Monte De Oro and Palumbo Family Vineyards.
Play a Few Rounds of Golf in the Desert -Ironically, golf has emerged as the area’s raison d’etre simply because it had little to do with the evolution of Palm Springs and the rest of the Coachella Valley. It wasn’t until the mid 1920’s that the first golf course, the nine-hole O’Donnell Golf Club, which still exists today, was introduced to a class of people more interested in tennis, polo, and pool-time. Credit the likes of Bob Hope and Dinah Shore, whose passion for the game paved the way for a diverse portfolio of 120 public and private golf courses designed by the likes of Palmer, Player, Nicklaus, and Norman. There is something here for everyone, which puts golf in Palm Springs on par with the likes of Scottsdale, Myrtle Beach, and Florida’s Gulf Coast.
Must Play Courses:
For years, the best players on the PGA TOUR, LPGA, and PGA TOUR Champions have congregated in the desert, competing at venues such as Pete Dye’s Stadium Course (The American Express), Indian Wells (Epson Tour Championship), and Mission Hills Country Club (The Galleri Classic). While nothing would be more satisfying than describing all of the courses in the area, here are several of my personal favourite venues that will certainly not disappoint.
- Desert Willow Golf Resort – Firecliff and Mountain View Courses. Owned by the City of Palm Desert, these are two of the best municipal golf courses in the U.S. – www.desertwillow.com
- Indian Wells Golf Resort – Players and Celebrity Courses. It is worth noting that the two golf courses at Indian Wells have been ranked in the Top 25 “Best Municipal Courses in the U.S.” by Golfweek Magazine – www.indianwellsgolfresort.com
- La Quinta Resort & Club –One of the PGA TOUR’s quintessential tour stops, La Quinta’s collection of five (5) championship courses has hosted The American Express (formerly the Bob Hope Classic) for more than 50 years. It is Pete Dye’s Stadium Course that is reserved for final round play and best known for its sinister 17th hole, a 168-yard par 3, infamously referred to as “Alcatraz”. – www.laquintaresort.com
- Mission Hills Country Club – Although it’s a private 54-hole club, I included Mission Hills on my list because you can play any one of the three courses, with the caveat that you’re accompanied by a member. It is the Dinah Shore Tournament Course that garners the most accolades, having hosted many professional events, including the former ANA Inspiration, an LPGA major, and best remembered for the winner’s jump into Poppie’s Pond – www.missionhills.com
A Final Comment…
While this may appear to be an extensive list of the “must-dos” in the Greater Palm Springs Area, in many ways, I feel I’ve just scratched the surface of all there is to do and experience here. This place is as special as it is unique. Given all its sizzle, it’s no surprise that Palm Springs is widely regarded as one of the best places to work and live in the United States. While the temperatures may be hot, Palm Springs is the epitome of California cool.
Fast Facts
Great Places to Stay:
The Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa, Indian Wells – www.marriott.com or call reservations at 760-795-9002
Palm Springs Visitor and Travel Information:
Greater Palm Springs Visitor Information –www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com, 1-800-967-3767
Getting There:
Getting to Palm Springs has never been easier or more convenient. Air Canada, WestJet, and Porter Airlines all offer non-stop flights from Toronto Pearson International Airport (YYZ) to Palm Springs International Airport (PSP) throughout the year.