British Columbia’s Columbia Valley – “Where the Mountains (and Golf) Bring Peace to the People”

By: Grant Fraser, Senior Travel Contributor

When American publisher and poet John B.L. Soule first coined the phrase “Go West, young man, go West” in an 1851 Terre Haute Express editorial, he was referring to western expansion and the opportunities that awaited anyone daring enough to venture into the North American wilderness in search of a new life and untold prosperity.

Obviously, he wasn’t referring to the game of golf; however, fast forward 200 years and it’s ironic that his phrase remains applicable today for avid golfers in pursuit of a totally unique golf experience.

As someone who grew up in southern Ontario, I have always been intrigued by the naturalness and beauty of western Canada. Perhaps it’s the awe-inspiring Pacific Ocean, the rugged, snow-capped Rocky Mountains, the abundant wildlife or simply finding yourself in the middle of nowhere within an hour’s drive from major urban areas like Vancouver, Edmonton, or Calgary.

Welcome to the Canadian Rocky Mountains

Recently I had the good fortune to visit beautiful British Columbia. While the likes of Whistler, Kelowna and Vancouver Island tend to be top-of-mind among visitors to the province, it is the lesser-known Columbia Valley that is equally extraordinary.

Getting to the Columbia Valley requires a bit of patience and perseverance. Upon your arrival to Calgary, be prepared for a three-hour drive along winding highways notched through the majestic Rocky Mountains. Fortunately, within less than an hour, any previously encountered airport stress will quickly dissipate as you coil your way along Hwy. 93 through virgin mountain valleys, glimmering glacial lakes and evergreen forests. My only advice – adhere to the speed limit where it frequently drops to 30km/hr. Also be prepared to lose your phone service for part of the drive – 105 km to be exact. While your initial reaction will likely be one of frustration, consider this a euphemistic cue to temporarily relinquish the busyness of the life you’ve left behind, if only for a week or two.

Welcome to the Columbia Valley – Radium Hot Springs

I recall the euphoria I experienced as I made my final hairpin turn and passed through the narrow cliffs of Sinclair Canyon only to be embraced by the great expanse of the Columbia Valley and distant Purcell Mountains. It was as though someone had rolled out a red carpet for me. At last, I had arrived at my long-awaited destination, Radium Hot Springs (pop. 1339), the entry point into British Columbia’s pristine interior region where visitors are warmly greeted by the welcome message, “The Mountains Shall Bring Peace to the People.”

Entry into Radium Hot Springs

Located on the border of Kootenay National Park, the village of Radium Hot Springs is best known for its laid-back lifestyle and soothing mineral waters that have attracted visitors from afar for over 150 years.

It is here where the concept of “Valley Time” begins as this is the more temperate side of the Rockies – both from a climate and lifestyle perspective. Life in this region unfolds at an atypical pace, one most Canadians are unfamiliar with. Perhaps it’s the warmer climate, the intimacy of the magnificent Rocky and Purcell mountains, or the unspoiled wetlands that befriend the Columbia River that created this valley thousands of years ago.

For geography buffs, the Columbia River measures 2,000 km andis the largest river in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. Originating in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, the river is directionally circuitous as it flows northwest and then south into the U.S. states of Washington and Oregon before emptying into the Pacific Ocean.

The Columbia and its tributaries have been central to the region’s culture and economy for generations. It is the many species of anadromous fish, especially salmon, which migrate between freshwater habitats and the saline waters of the Pacific Ocean that have provided the core subsistence for many of the area’s indigenous peoples including the Shuswap Band and Metis and Akisqnuk First Nations.

Golf in Radium Hot Springs

My first Columbia Valley golf experience was at the Bighorn Meadows Resort and its Springs Golf Course. The resort is the finest accommodation in town, comprised of tastefully decorated fractional ownership units of differing sizes designed to meet any family’s needs. The golf course happens to be located on property, ideal for early morning tee times where you can simply roll out of bed and proceed to the first tee with clubs and coffee in hand. If your daily routine starts with a full breakfast, Elevations Restaurant is the resort’s fine, yet casual, dining option appropriately named for the sensational patio views overlooking the Valley and its adjoining wetland areas.

Bighorn Meadows Resort

The Springs was designed by accomplished golf course designer Les Furber. I thoroughly enjoyed playing the 6,818-yard layout primarily because of its proximity to the Columbia River and Rocky and Purcell Mountain ranges. Knowing that glaciers ebbed and flowed throughout this valley over many millennia further enhanced my appreciation of my four-hour walk along the riverside fairways and greens.

The Springs course proudly boasts “Bighorn Bend”, its self-proclaimed version of “Amen Corner,” for its final four finishing holes. It’s no coincidence that you’ll likely encounter an assembly of bighorn sheep freely roaming the fairways before you conclude your round. A local rule states that should you find your ball embedded in a clove-shaped footprint anywhere on the golf course, you’ll be afforded free relief compliments of the resident herd. Golfers are reminded to be respectful (and sensible) when in proximity to the grazing sheep. Unlike any previous forgiveness you may have received, there will be no relief if you venture too close to a protective ewe or territorial ram whose horns may weigh up to 30lbs.

Don’t Mess with the Bighorn Sheep!

Of the four Bighorn Bend finishing finales, the most difficult is the short, but menacing, par 3, 17^th hole. Widely considered to be Springs’ signature hole, this knee-knocker is as scenic as it is exacting. Either you land your tee shot on the green 150 yards away, or you find yourself among the canyon rocks and rubble 100 feet below.

The 17^th Hole at the Springs

Radium Hot Springs is for Classic Car Lovers

In addition to its golf courses, Radium Hot Springs is also the host of the annual Columbia Valley Show and Shine – the finest classic car show in Western Canada. Like clockwork, this event happens every year on the third weekend of September on the driving range of the Springs Golf Course. For over 30 years, car enthusiasts from across Canada and the United States have come to check out cars from yesteryear. With over 700 cars on display, there is something for every gear head and hot rod aficionado including vintage Corvettes, Mustangs, Cadillacs and Camaros. If you have yet to embrace the hybrid and electric modern car era, this is the car show for you. It is B.C.’s own Concours d’ Elegance, where the love and enthusiasm for rare and collectible cars is contagious among all who savour the sound of revving big-block Chevy engines and the visual assortment of jelly-bean paint colours.

Columbia Valley’s Annual Show & Shine

Next Stop…Invermere

Just south of Radium Hot Springs is the lakeside town of Invermere (pop. 3917). Like its sibling 17 km to the north, Invermere is nestled between the Rocky Mountains to the east and Purcell mountains to the west. It is here that the Columbia River flows for its first 320 km, northwest along Lake Windermere. It’s all about the boating, beaches and golf that make this such a popular vacation destination.

There are two golf courses in the area that are must-plays. The first is the Eagle Ranch Resort, a stay-and-play property featuring the elegant Headwaters Lodge and a championship 6,646-yard golf course renowned for its demanding and diverse holes. The 173-yard, par 3 16^th and 537-yard, par 5 18^th are two holes I found most noteworthy. The former demands a precise cliff-top approach to what seems like a postage stamp-sized green while the latter commands a difficult 200+ yard final approach over another deep gorge.

The Par 3 16^th Hole at Eagle Ranch

After your round be sure to partake in an après-golf beverage on the Eagle Ranch clubhouse patio where panoramic vistas of Lake Windermere await or return to the Lodge and enjoy a Columbia Valley sunset while curled up comfortably in a Muskoka chair, warmed by a blazing fire with glass of wine in hand.

Enjoying a Columbia Valley Sunset

Invermere’s other exceptional golf experience course is the 6,891-yard Point Course at the Copper Point Golf Club. Designed in collaboration by Gary Browning and Wade Horrocks, the Point is a parkland-style course tucked below the peaks of the ever-present Kootenay Rockies.

What I appreciated most about the Point was its playability. There were no blind or gimmicky holes. What you see from every tee is the entire hole as it is intended to be played. I especially appreciated the ability to walk the course, fully immersing myself in the surreal surroundings and brisk mountain air. The nuances and undulations of a few of the course’s bowl-shaped greens and subsequent roller coaster putts I encountered made for an exciting day. My recommendation – try and play with a local resident who is familiar with the complexities of the greens, otherwise prepare yourself for several unavoidable 3-putts.

Invermere’s Challenging Point Course

Pristine Panorama

Just a 20-minute drive from Invermere, Panorama, as its namesake suggests, is one of B.C.’s most popular golf and ski resort destinations. With a population of a few hundred permanent residents, visitors from around the world come to experience all this remote alpine paradise has to offer regardless of the season.

While the slopes in Panorama may be the lure for snow seekers, so too is the golf. Carved throughout the valleys of the surrounding Purcell Mountains sprawls one of Canada’s best golf courses. Measuring 7,140 yards, the Greywolf Golf Course, is a “masterpiece in the mountains”, that quietly opened its doors in 1999 and has since received countless reviews and well-deserved accolades from various national and international golf publications. The brainchild of acclaimed golf course designer Doug Carrick, it is an experience unlike any other, truly capturing the essence of mountain golf.

The Clubhouse at Greywolf

When I asked Carrick about Greywolf and how he brought the property to fruition he said, “this was as beautiful a piece of property I have worked with anywhere in the world. The design I envisioned naturally fit into the existing topography and the result was a truly authentic mountain golf course.”

While Carrick didn’t say this was his favourite among the 34 other gems he has designed, I’ll go out on a limb and say it’s arguably his finest. That’s effusive praise as I’ve played most of Carrick’s best golf courses including Humber Valley (Newfoundland), Muskoka Bay and Bigwin Island (Ontario), Predator Ridge (Alberta), and now Greywolf in B.C. All are timeless in their own right, but there’s something magical about Greywolf that sets it apart from the rest. Frequently, I found myself framing my next photograph as often as I did selecting the club for my upcoming shot.

While I could write extensively about every hole, I’ll mention one in particular that is synonymous with Greywolf. It is The Hole that put Greywolf on the map and one that best personifies the Greywolf experience. Appropriately bestowed “Cliffhanger”, the daunting 200-yard 6^th hole may be the best par 3 in Canada. How many golf holes can you think of that are recognizable simply by their name? Cliffhanger is one of them.

Upon your arrival at the tee, you can’t help but feel distracted by the awesomeness of the hole itself. What appears to be pea-like in size is actually a generous green, a “mere” mid-iron approach away. Figuring out what club to hit is just the beginning as now is the time for you to step up and hit the shot of your life. From the tee, one of two outcomes will occur. You’ll either successfully traverse the steep 100-foot canyon below, chiseled by the trickling, and facetiously named, Hopeful Creek – or you won’t. If you do, this will be a par (or better) you will never forget and one you’ll be sure to share with your golfing pals. Hence the name Cliffhanger; intimidating, exhilarating and breathtaking all ensconced into one unforgettable hole.

The Infamous Cliffhanger hole at Greywolf

Fairmont Hot Springs

My final Columbia Valley destination was the small hamlet of Fairmont Hot Springs (pop.781). Located 20 km south of Invermere, the village is burrowed on the banks of the meandrous Columbia River just north of Columbia Lake. As its name suggests, it was the mineral rich, fresh water hot pools that first drew settlers to Fairmont dating back to 1912, home to Canada’s largest natural hot springs.

Today, these therapeutic mineral pools remain the focal point of Fairmont, but so too are the three golf courses that await golfers of all skill levels. The Mountainside and Riverside courses are the area’s two challenging 18-hole designs while the shorter, nine-hole Creekside course is ideal for anyone new to the game. It was the Mountainside course that paved the way and introduced golf to the Valley in 1963 when the original owners had the foresight to build a nine-hole golf course. A subsequent nine was built a decade later and what exists today is another fine example of mountain golf in the Columbia Valley. For the serious golfer, be prepared for a difficult day of putting as most of the greens on the Mountainside course are notoriously small and elevated, where severe right to left or left to right putts are the norm. Despite the miniature-sized greens, the course was most enjoyable and a wonderful walk along the base of the Rocky Mountains.

The Mountainside Course at Fairmont Hot Springs

While the Columbia Valley may be off the beaten track, it is certainly worth the drive whether you are coming east from Calgary, north from Cranbrook or further afar from Kelowna or Vancouver.

Beautiful British Columbia

So, the next time you’re planning a summer vacation that includes marvelous mountain golf courses, a classic car show, delicious local cuisine, and a variety of outdoor activities to preoccupy you for months, heed the sage advice of the aforementioned John B.L. Soule and “go west young man, go west.” This is the place where the “mountains do bring peace to the people”, and if you come and stay for a while, you may find the elusive peace of mind you’ve been looking for, never wanting to leave.

Non-Golf Activities in the Columbia Valley

While golf may be your primary reason for visiting the Columbia Valley, I would be remiss if I didn’t include some exciting non-golf activities that should be included on all travel itineraries.

1. Take a Plunge in the Radium Hot Springs (hotsprings.ca)

The Radium Hot Springs have been part of Kootenay National Park since 1922 attracting people from around the world for their therapeutic health benefits. Consider this Canada’s version of the Fountain of Youth. No trip would be complete to the Columbia Valley without a plunge in the hot springs pool. I’m not sure what the actual medicinal benefits are, but you’ll feel great afterwards!

2. A Walk Along 7^th Avenue in Invermere (artspotsinvermere.com)

Be sure to take a stroll up and down Invermere’s 7th Avenue. Check out the different shops, bakeries and art galleries. The first Friday of every month is the town’s Art Walk; an excellent opportunity to meet local artisans and experience first-hand the incredible talent in the area.

3.Valley Zipline Adventures (valleyzip.com)

Located on Hwy 93 between Radium Hot Springs and Invermere, Valley Zipline features seven exciting zip lines that crisscross the Dry Gulch Valley.

4. Columbia River Paddle (columbiariverpaddle.com)

Come and paddle on the Columbia River just as Spanish explorer Bruno de Heceta did dating back nearly 250 years! Columbia River Paddle provides experienced guides who will lead you through the expansive wetlands. Depending on the time of year, over 200 different species of birds nest here.

5. ATV’ing with Toby Creek Adventures (tobycreekadventures.com)

Whether it be on an ATV, snowmobile or mountain bike, nobody does adventure like Toby Creek Adventures! Accompanied by certified wilderness guides, you’ll ascend 8,000 feet above sea level to “Paradise”, a remote outpost atop the Purcell Mountain range. Be sure to check out the waterfall and touch the soft needles of a Larch tree before you make your descent. The warm cookies the guides serve at the summit are a nice touch!

6. Hike the Hoo Doo Trail

There are numerous hiking trails in the Valley but none more scenic than the Hoo Doo Trail. The entrance to the trail is located a short 5 km drive from the Fairmont Hot Springs resort. The Hoo Doo’s are a geological wonder, uniquely shaped, and carved from retreating glaciers 10,000 years ago. A 3 km ascent on a walkable trail to the crest of the Hoo Doo’s provides spectacular views of Columbia Lake, Dutch Creek and the surrounding farmlands.

7. Kicking Horse Coffee in Invermere

Just do what they say, “Wake Up and Kick Ass! (kickinghorsecoffee.ca)

Great Places to Stay

Bighorn Meadows Resort www.bighornmeadows.com

Eagle Ranch Resort www.eagleranchresort.com

Headwaters Lodge at Eagle Ranch Resort www.eagleranchresort.com/lodge

Fairmont Hot Springs www.fairmonthotsprings.com

Great Places to Eat

Radium Hot Springs

Elevations Restaurant at Springs Golf Course www.radiumgolf.ca/restaurants

Big Horn Cafe www.bighorncafe.ca

Old Salzburg Restaurant www.oldsalzburgrestaurant.com